Specifications include, but are not limited to: MALE BRAIDED BLOUSE VMI Approved Sample Size Must Be 44 Regular MATERIAL: Cadet Gray or VMI approved equivalent 18 ½ - 19 ½ 100% Wool Melton STYLE: VMI Cadet type (Braided) with contoured (single side seam) body, with its inner structure to fit over actual shoulder, chest, waist, and seat sizes. CLOSURE: Standard Male Closure. CUTTING NOTES: a. Seam allowance: Add to forepart 1 1/4” (Tolerance – 1/4” + 0”) b. Add to underarm sleeve seam no less than 1 1/2” (but no more than 1 3/4”). Add this extra amount to the backside of the underarm seam only; the front side of the seam must have a seam allowance of 3/8” for alteration purposes. Both seams taper to 3/8” each at 9” above bottom of unfinished sleeve. c. Center Back seam has at least 1 1/4” (Tolerance – 1/4” + 0”) on each side of the back seam for adjustments. d. Back braid distance 16” down from base of collar and has a total inside measurement (measuring from inside right braid to inside left braid—across center back seam) of 5 3/4” on a size 44R (with a tolerance of + or – 1/4”). e. Styling seams have 3/8” seam allowance on each side of seam with a tolerance of plus 1/8” and – 0. f. Bottom turn-up of blouse is 1 3/4” (plus or minus 1/8”) for lengthening purposes g. No more than 1/8” Clipping or Notching of garment on any Seam allowances. (No clipping or notching at all is preferred.) h. The lining of body has a 2 1/2” total amount (tolerance of plus or minus 1/2”) continuous pleat down the center back from neck area, thru the bottom of the skirt of the lining itself. This is for alteration purposes and to allow fullness throughout body of lining. This continuous pleat is to be folded over and is to be pressed down from the neckline to the bottom of the lining. Pleat at hem is to hang loose (not to be rolled over and sewn down). i. Measurement/size chart is found at the end of Section III of this document. j. Neck of blouse to be the same size asthe collar size specified in the attached chart. Collar itself to go end to end of blouse when “walked around” (before sewn down). Tolerance of minus 0 and plus 3/8” for body neck. k. There is to be no side panel in any of these blouses. LENGTH: Length of coat – lower edge front and rear to reach crotch line. Lengths determined by size (short, reg., long, etc). Length of coat for 44S is 27 ½”, 44R is 28 ½”, 44L is 29 ½” and 44XL is 30 ½”. There is 1” added to the length for each additional body length. There is a tolerance of plus or minus 1/4”. Lengths are to be graded according to sizes. FEMALE BRAIDED BLOUSE VMI Approved Sample Size Must Be 12 REGULAR EXACT SAME SPECIFICATIONS AS MALE WITH EXCEPTIONS NOTED BELOW: FEMALE PATTERN: Standard female closure. FEMALE COLLAR: Collar to be 1 1/2" wide. FEMALE COLLAR TAB/CLIPS: Black wool, self fabric tab 1 1/2" wide and 2 3/4” long to go on RIGHT SIDE OF THE COLLAR (opposite of the male collar tab). Top of collar insert clip to be 1/2" below top of collar. FEMALE COLLAR CLOSURE: Hook is placed on LEFT SIDE of collar and the eye on right side (this is opposite of the male blouse collars). FEMALE BOTTOM CLOSURE: One small hook and eye #11 (3/8”) are placed two (2) inches from bottom of coat. The hook is placed on the RIGHT SIDE and the eye on the LEFT SIDE (opposite of the male collar hook and eye). FRONT FEMALE SEAM: Seam on each side will run laterally from shoulder seam to blouse bottom for fullness in upper chest area. FACING: (Black front flap): The facing to start no less than 1/8” (and no more than 1/4”) below the collar and finishes 1/2” (tolerance of plus or minus 0”) below the zipper on the left hand side. (NOTE: zipper finishes 4” above the bottom of the blouse.) WIDTH: The distance between the back center braid when measured 16” down from the base of the collar is to be 4” (tolerance of + or – 1/8”). FEMALE ZIPPER: The zipper pull to be placed on the LEFT HAND SIDE for female blouse. (Pull to follow flap.) POCKETS: Inside left breast, horizontal style, set into the left facing. 5" opening with reinforced welted edges of the black wool, facing fabric.